Monday, August 3, 2009

Accidental New York


So my final world travels concluded with a week-long cruise in Greece and Turkey with my extended family. I had to cut the trip short because I had to return to LA for three intense summer classes and 'boot camp' for Spirit Squad.

Greece lived up to every dream I wanted it to be. I have wanted to go there forever. Santorini was so picturesque with the white buildings clinging to the steep cliffs towering over the turquoise sea. Athens was also great, and I was overflowing with Art History facts. Turkey was simply awesome. I really had no expectations for what Turkey would be like, but I loved it. The vibe, the people, the history...I can't wait to go back.

Unfortunately I dropped my camera within the first hour of being in Greece (and that hour was spent on a bus getting to town from the airport) and the screen has turned completely blank. The camera can still take photos, just blindly...so I let my mom do the photography and have no photos to post.

My flight back was pretty awful. It was supposed to be a 10.5 hour flight from Athens to NYC. Usually I just sleep on planes but I couldn't fall asleep. There were no even remotely interesting movies playing and I didn't like my book. So I just sat there listening to the cacophony of crying infants who put to sound how miserable I felt. About an hour away from New York, we get word from Air Traffic Control that we need to wait our turn and begin circling over the ocean for AN HOUR. Awful. Not only does circling make you feel ill, I was not emotionally prepared to sit a minute longer in my chair. The map with the airplane looked like a child had scribbled in circles on it over the atlantic ocean. Anyway, after 12 hours we finally land. But it takes another 45 minutes to get off the plane because we have to get taxied by a people mover and they won't let people off the plane...

I had about 45 minutes to make my connection to CA so I begin sprinting through the airport, and had my first experience with rude and inconsiderate New Yorkers. I got yelled at for running by some man because he didn't want me to cut him in line. By the time I get through passport control (JFK airport is probably the least efficient airport ever) I had about 20 minutes till my flight left. Delta wouldn't let me through security because they said it was too late, I would miss my flight.

I had to rebook, and the only flight they could put me on was one for the NEXT DAY, through Atlanta. Oh and NO, they wouldn't compensate for the hotel for the night because it 'wasn't their fault.' Between exhaustion, frustration, and loneliness, I just started crying. Then my cell phone didn't even work since we were underground so I couldn't call my father. Finally I get through to him and gave me the strength to pull myself together and find a hotel. I stayed at the Ramada by the airport which was expensive but crappy. I was starving and could not stand staying a moment longer in the hotel room with peeling paint and chipped wood dressers. So with a little help from my NYC saavy friends, I hopped on the Metro into Manhattan.


I'm glad I did because it totally changed my opinion of NY (which up to this point could be described in three words that were repeating in my head 'I hate NY, I hate NY'). I got off at 5th avenue to the hustle and bustle of the city-- The gorgeous skyscrapers in the evening light.And the energy and excitement of city life. It was classy and clean, and I recognized so many things from movies and tv shows. I explored a small corner of Central Park before the sun set. Then I walked down to Times Square and gaped at the deep city lights, and the flashing show signs. I loved it. The temperature was perfect and everyone was enjoying their Saturday night out. I ate a DELICOUS sandwich at a cute NY Deli and was going to top it off with a Hunkin slice of cheese cake (but ended up with a brownie since the cheese cake was just too big).

I can't wait to go back!

Here is my blind photography from NY. I didn't crop any of the shots, this was the way I blindly took them.






Tuesday, June 2, 2009

Relaxation in Hamburg


Hamburg has welcomed us with the most beautiful weather, the most gracious hospitality of Nils and Judith, and best of all, the loving arms of my sister Alexis. Despite how much fun I was having in Spain, I feel like I get to relax in Germany. The purpose of the visit is to see Lex, not cram in every memorable sight, church, moorish architecture, art museum, and plaza around. Time spent doing nothing is still time well spent.

But of course, we haven't been doing nothing...


We walked around the Alster to downtown Hamburg and checked out the ruins of a church bombed by the Allied forces in WWII. We walked around Blankanese, the wealthy 'beach' (on the river) area. We visited the Beatles Platz where the Beatles first became famous way back in the day and sang every Beatles song that was engraved on the street. We went out to Lex's traditional Karaoke on Monday night. We ran along the river in the morning. We did calisthenics in Inno Park (and are ridiculously sore from it all). We rowed down the canals (Hamburg claims to be a watery-er city than Venice) in a classic row boat. And of course I have indulged in deliciously hearty german bread, much-needed German chocolate, a plethora of fresh organic fruit, and a tasty assortment of gourmet cheeses.


The boys Alexis takes care of are also great. Piet (10 months) is the happiest child I have seen and is quick to giggle and laugh, and rarely cries. He has mastered the art of crawling, doing baby yoga (in which his legs twist into the most contorted positions), and babbling in baby talk. Oh and he just learned to 'wink' aka wave which is the cutest thing ever.

Finn is quite a mature five year old and loves making lists of the things he has planned for every day of the week. He is a bottomless pit of hunger when it comes to eating...and they eat the healthiest food in this house.

Jo (2 years), or der grosse junge (the big young man), has yet to warm up to me. And, unfortunately, my presence usually triggers him into unnecessary misbehavior. I did, almost, break through to him by making him a paper crane yesterday, but today he has resumed burying his face in Mommy's lap when he sees me.

Thursday, May 28, 2009

Pilgrimage to Rosio

For our last full day here before we head to Hamburg to visit Lex, we got to witness Pilgrams taking a week long trip to Rosio, a small town on the boarder of Portugal. Why? It has something to do with Catholiscim; devotion here is really big. But as the masses paraded around the streets today, it seemed like a huge festival I was jealous I was not a part of. Everyone was wearing their flamenco dresses and the rainbow ruffles filled the streets. They clapped while they walked singing flamenco songs as traditionally dressed men played the guitar and drums. In the front there were men on horse back and women side saddle. In there rear were 26 white ox carts decorated with whimsical patterned curtains and lavish floral arrangements. The two wheeled carts were, of course, pulled by a team of oxen (also decked out in festive attire). They also have a silver float with a holy image of the virgin. Old women filled with passion hold on to the edge of the float, as a promise to fill in this pilgramage.

The journey on foot takes a couple of days to this little town that blossoms from a population of 1000 to a population of 10,000 for the festival. At night they have bonfires and music as they all camp out under the stars. Too bad we cant witness this part.

Picutres to come...when I´m not at an internet cafe

Monday, May 25, 2009

The Rock of Gibraltar


The Rock of Gibraltar towers with its near vertical rock face over the ocean. It is known in legend as one of the Pillars of Hercules. The other pillar stands in Morocco, a mere image reflected south, to stand guard as the gate between the Mediterranean Sea and the beginning of the end of the earth, the vast Atlantic.

They hardly even glanced at our passports (they didn't even open them up), as we crossed the boarder from Spain to Great Brittan. We walked across Gibraltar's personal air strip to get into a town. English menu's advertised Fish 'n' Chips, there were old-fashioned red telephone booths, the policemen had funny hats, prices were quoted in pounds and pence, and some cars even had steering wheels on the wrong side. Children passing by whined in English accents, 'But mum...' as mother's scolded them back for being so 'cheeky.'I kept feeling like I was in a movie or something and people were putting on the accent as an act.

We rode a cable car up to the top of mountain. It was windy and the ridge of the limestone monolith rather narrow. As soon as we got off, the famed Barbary Apes of Gibraltar abounded. (They are the only wild primates left in Europe.) They had absolutely no fear of humans, though they were sneaky little buggers and I feared that they would come attack my back pack at any moment. Though there were signs all over warning about ape bites and fines for touching the wild animals, tourist-toting-taxi drivers would play with the creatures and even set them on your shoulder. The one on Dana's head decided to do some preening of her hair.




We walked down from the top of the mountain zigzagging our way from the south and north tip and back again. The 360 views of the Europe, Africa, Atlantic, and Mediterranean were breathtaking, as were the steep climbs.

We also climbed into St. Michael's Cave. This grotto of moist stalactites and stalagmites was legend to be the gates to Hades. As I looked down into the black abyss in the corner of the cave, it wouldn't take much to convince me that it truly was bottomless. Another legend said that it was the portal to an underground tunnel to Africa and that's how the monkey's came to live on the rock. (What those two legends say about their views of Africa...I shiver to think). They turned part of the cave into a concert hall and hold shows here. (How cool is that?)

On the other side of the mountain were 30 miles of siege tunnels blasted into the rock so that the British could fire cannons at the attacking French and Spanish who held them under siege for a couple years in the 18th century. (Gibraltar, I read, is still a sore spot for Spain...). These tunnels also came to play in WWII, but I forget how. The rock is clearly just a military stronghold. At one time it could have controlled who entered and exited the Mediterranean Sea, but these days it seems to be left over stubborn pride in the British Empire and perhaps a place for some soldiers to train (we saw some camo-clad men trudging up the hill with machine guns and the works).

The weekend was a whirlwind of travel. Between countries, and bus rides, boat trips and boarder crossing, and a time schedule that was always too rushed and involved running to your destination. We went to Morocco for a half day on Sunday...but that's another whole box of Pandoras.

Wednesday, May 20, 2009

Playing Dress Up



Mom, Dana and I sheepishly walked into one of the thousands of Flamenco dress shops in our neighborhood. The multi-colored dresses like a rainbow hang heavy on the walls. The ladies inside immediately begin to ask us what we are looking for, the style of Flamenco dance we do... etc. To be honest, mom meekly admits, the girls just wanted to try them on, just to feel Spanish. (We would want to buy them too, but the dresses range between 250-500 Euros...a titch out of my price range). Instead of glaring down with a scolding look these two ladies perk up and begin pulling dresses of the rack, handing them to me and push me towards the curtained dressing room. They tell me to step into the dress and come in to help zip me up. In her excitement the lady breaks the zipper of the first dress I tried. I felt awful. No worries, she grabs another dress and zips it with a little less zeal to make sure it goes up right. They reach into their basket of flowers and begin pinning them in me and Dana's hair. They tell me to take of my earrings so she can put her huge dangly ones in. A necklace and a shawl get draped over me, and a mother-of-pearl comb is slid into my hair. In no time I am a proper Spanish lady.




Giant Jesus


We were sitting on the floor around the large square coffee table eating dinner last Sunday. Since our place lacks any dining-room table we gather around this low table every evening (Spanish style at 9pm) for dinner that mom, Dana, and I have cooked. Out in the streets we could hear trumpets and blasting music. You could smell some incense even wafting through our open windows. There is always something going on in Sevilla on the streets, but this sounded pretty important. Mom, of course, had to go check what was happening. We are right on a main artery street that leads to the largest Gothic Cathedral in the world but tucked down a little alley so we can't see the street (or the church) from our windows. Abba, Dana and I continue eating until we hear mom pounding up the stairwell shouting,

"A GIANT JESUS IS COMING!!! A GIANT JESUS IS COMING, you've GOT to come see."

I had just showered and was wearing my PJ's but there was no time to waste. We set down our spoons. Jesus was coming down the street and I wouldn't miss it in a lifetime. I grabbed my camera and was still chewing as we barreled down the stairs, round the corner of the alley and on to the street. I felt a little indecent in my baggy t-shirt and cotton shorts. I hoped Jesus wouldn't judge me; everyone else was wearing their Sunday best. The Spainards are pretty devout people. I guess they, as the Bible tells them, are prepared for Jesus' coming at any moment. The procession was grandiose. People were swinging incense, carrying religious pendants, silver crosses and meter long candles. Alter boys of all ages handed out holy cards. The trumpets boomed in my chest as the symphonic marching band approached. And then past the clouds of incense, I spotted him, life size, riding atop a massive gold float...JESUS. There were flowers and candles adorning the platform that was carried upon the shoulders of 30 large men. You could only see their black shoes shuffling in unison poking out from underneath the float. Jesus' hands reached out to me, his halo sparked in gold in the last fading light of the evening. He wore is heart on his sleeve (or really his chest) as he looked down lovingly upon his followers.

I heard angels singing and the old man next to me threw his cane down and began to walk... Just kidding about that part.

We followed the procession as it continued on down the streets of the town.

Friday, May 15, 2009

...and then we dance Flamenco, aye aye ay!


Daddy and his princesses: there was such a family feel to the day.

Today we took a bus ride out to Carmona, a small city 40 km from Sevilla that was having some sort of Feria this weekend. The entire town was shut down and everyone flocked to the Fairgrounds fully decked out in their multi-colored Flamenco Dresses. I felt so plain in my jean skirt. People were riding on horses, eating lavish meals, socializing, playing carnival games or riding amusement park rides.

Girls of all ages had on their dress, with a tasseled shawl, a flower in their hair, bright red lipstick, a fake mole on the cheek, and matching shoes.


From every corner of the city, people flocked to the fair grounds.


Literally everyone was dressed in Flamenco dresses. The variety was amazing and together they made quite a ruffly rainbow down the street.


It was a hot afternoon, these girls stand in the shade enjoying an ice cream



Mmm, the pop-cicles are delicious



Mom kept trying to keep her out of that fountain but...she knew how to stay cool


The kids, of course, were excited about the carnival games.



Its no big deal to ride the amusement park rides in dresses...



Notice the fake cigarette in this girl's hands. She and her friends thought they were sooo cool to be puffing on them like the older girls. Its a little sad that Europe is so plagued by cigarette smoke

,
Enough pictures all ready! This girl began crying as daddy took out his camera


Even the boys got to dress up. These caballeros are too cute!

Thursday, May 14, 2009

Architecture

Sevilla has an eclectic mix of architectural history. From Roman, Moorish, and European inspiration the buildings here are simply breath-taking.

Here is a Roman Amphitheater located right outside of Sevilla. This Roman City, Italica, dates back 2000 years ago. Emperor Trajan was born in this city! There was even a little piece of Trajan's column on display. There were also many mosaics from the floor of bath houses and different housing complexes.




The Moors controlled Sevilla for 700 years. The intricate and geometric designs are beautiful. Here is a picture inside the Alcazar, a palace made from the time of the Moors but used also during the Catholic reconquer. The gardens were also extensive and amazing. This is the Toro de Oro used by the Moors to protect the city from the invading Catholics attempting to claim Sevilla. The Moors brought Spain its golden age and kept it from the ignorance of the Dark Ages that plagued the rest of Europe.
Sevilla has been home to Muslims, Jews and Christians and gone through both periods of peace and war amongst the groups.





And finally here are some pictures from Plaza Espana. This building was built in 1929 for the International Fair. Now it just sits empty but still stunning. As a 'modern' building you can see the inspiration from all of Sevilla's tangled history.




(Doesn't this picture kind of remind you of Royce Hall?)

Monday, May 11, 2009

Goodmorning Sevilla

We are staying in Sevilla for 3 weeks and so far it is a great city. Teeming with old history from the Moors, Christians, and Jews, Flamenco culture on every corner and (so far) beautiful weather we couldn't have chosen a better spot. However, our first introduction to Sevilla was not so great, here is the story:

Dana and I decided to take a night bus from Madrid to Sevilla. The bus ride was 6 hours (and saved us the cost of another night in a hostel) and left at midnight. Bleary eyed and exhausted from a night of poor sleep we arrived at the Sevilla bus station at 6am. It was still dark outside. We sat on the stiff plastic chairs inside the station and waited and waited. My parents weren't arriving to Sevilla until 1:30pm so we wouldn't be able to get into the apartment until then. Like all bus stations, this one had a few characters. A man smoking a cigarette who fell asleep with it between his index fingers. A few hippie sorts with dreadlocks and big back packs. And a drooling hunchback who called us pigs after we refused to give him a Euro.

After waiting until 8am we decided to store our luggage in the locker and wander around town. The sky was a thick grey but it wasn't too cold. The city though, was dead. There was NOTHING open as we winded up and down the streets half delirious with exhaustion. We were hungry too. Unfortunately the idea of a 24 hour market/restaurant was never conceived in Spain, and for Spaniards 8 in the morning is waaay too early to be awake anyways. It was almost 9am when we stumbled across a bar/cafe/cafeteria/tapas place (most food locals go by one of these names...all serve beer, coffee, tapas and bocadillos)that was open. We indulged in Tortilla Espanola (like an omlette)and a cheese and tomato sandwich. They were delicious until we found out that that simple snack cost us 10 Euros...

Anyways, we continued to wander towards the cathedral. It would have been impressive if I could keep my eyelids open but we were tired and spotted a nice stone bench to curl up on and sleep. I pulled up my hood and used my purse as a pillow. It was probably 9:30 by this time and the city was beginning to wake. After about 45 minuted Dana and I switched sides since the side we were laying on had fallen asleep. Despite the discomfort, bright sky, and noisy cars and people I feel into a deep sleep. Untill...

We were woken up by two police men. They were actually outstandingly kind. And wanted to make sure that we were okay. Evidently people were worried because we were asleep on these benches. They asked if we had been partying too much, and I explained our situation. They didn't even explicitly tell us to leave, but of course we immediately got up and apologized.

We got a coffee and felt almost rejuvenated and decided to go back to the bus station, grab our stuff and head to the apartment. The apartment was hard to find, and my backpack (and Dana's suitcase) were heavy. But we trudged down the narrow sidewalks with a map two inches away from my nose at all times and finally made it to the 'Casa del Maestro. We enter and the lady inside told us that we didn't have reservations here, but at the 'Suites del Maestro' at the OTHER END OF TOWN.

What could we do but continue lugging all our stuff back toward the Cathedral. The Apartment is tucked away down this itty bitty alley way with absolutely no signs whatsoever. I was so tired, annoyed and passed the point tears. I had to ask 3 or 4 people where the place was before finding someone who knew. Mom and Abba hadn't arrived yet, but the lady let us in. We got to shower and lay on our heavenly bed of clouds to wait for them.

Welcome to Sevilla...

Sunday, May 10, 2009

The North of Spain

Here are some photos I promised of my travels. Many of the highlights were found inside museums or monuments where photography was prohibited, but I chose 2 photos from each of the four cities to highlight the time.

Pamplona--This was a 6 hour train ride from Barcelona. It butts up right against the Pyranees and it was cold and rainy. Pamplona is famous for the Run of the Bulls in June and is the backdrop to the book The Sun Also Rises by Ernest Hemmingway. But aside from these two claims to fame, the city has little to offer to tourist.

Here I am in front of a statue honoring the bull run. The statue is pretty graphic and includes the artist himself getting gored by a bull in the back.






Pamplona has also many beautiful parks that we enjoyed wandering.














Bilbao--We hopped on a bus after learning that the bus system is faster, cheaper, and more extensive than the train system and in 2 hours were in Bilbao. This city had a lot of character and charm. We stayed right in the heart of the old town with twisting little lanes and cobble stones. Of course the attraction to Bilbao is the Guggenheim which even exceeded my expectations for a WONDERFUL art museum (again no photos inside). The modern art was spectacular


















Madrid--We headed south to the warm sunshine and big city bustle of Madrid. We failed in completely experiencing the 'city that never sleeps' because we packed so much touristic stuff into the day we couldn't cope with the Spainish practice of going to discos from 3am to 7am in the morning. But we did get to meditate infront Picasso's Guernica at another fabulous modern art museum. I also checked off more Art History paintings in the Prado (Goya 3rd of May, Velasquez Las Meninas, Bosch Garden of Earthly Delights). Madrid has lots of squares and street life as well as a massive Park to enjoy.


















Toledo--Just an hour south of Madrid lies the old capital of Spain, Toledo. Toledo felt medieval with everything in stone, narrow winding lanes, and shops of swords and armor. This city also is near where Don Quixote was born into imagination. We enjoyed the red tones of the sunset at 9pm (sun sets late here) and it gave you that romantic Spanish feel. The Moorish influence is becoming more prevalent as we venture south!

Friday, May 8, 2009

Those Europeans

Europeans/Spainards have figured a LOT of stuff out.
-The metro system = superb
-Long distance buses = relatively inexpensive, timely, comfortable, and widespread
-Hostels = They are all over the place and while they very in degree of comfort all provide hot showers, a roof over your head, a bed with linens, with no need for prior reservations
-Walking streets = Every other street is set off just for pedestrians. Dana and I have been killing time here in Madrid all day waiting to take our night bus to Sevilla and have not stopped walking hither thither around the city. My feet might be tired but the 10 hour walk was great. There are people to watch, shops to look into, and parks to explore
-All you can eat buffets = Since food is expensive Dana and I have made use of the plethora of All you can eat buffets. They are absolutely wonderful AND you can eat lots of veggies veggies and veggies. Spainards pride themselves on pigs, its not my cup of tea.

As much as I respect these great things about Europe there are a few things that kill me LITERALLY
-Cigarette smoke = I had forgotten how many smokers are in Europe. Indoors its terrible but even outdoors I am somehow always downwind of a smoker. I have had terribly itchy nose and eyes all week and today I feel like I cant inhale completely and I think all the second hand smoke might be responsible. Oh, and I hold my breath when I put on my clothes in the morning because the stale smell of smoke is festering in the fibers BLECH.
´
Once I reunite with Mom and Abba tomorrow I will be able to post more about our adventures in the past two weeks with pictures and such. But for now, take a deep sweet breath of California air for me and enjoy it.

Saturday, May 2, 2009

Travel

Since my parents have been in Mallorca I have been traveling around Spain with my friend Dana. It has been pretty cool since we have no reservations or obligations, we have taken trains and buses to various cities around Spain, and without prior reservations found nice and and inexpensive places to stay each night. We started in Pamplona (famous for the bull run and Ernest Hemmingway). Pamplona was sort of a dud. The weather was cold and rainy and there was not too much to see. No worries we packed up and left to Bilbao. Bilbao was GREAT. The city was still rainy, but had much more character. It was grand but steeped in old cobble stone streets. The Guggenheim museum was an absolute gem and we spent an entire day walking around the modern ar exhibits there. WONDERFUL. We are now in Madrid, and will be here for the rest of the weekend and the beginning of the week. Madrid has tons of tourist compared to what we have seen before. There is a huge soccer game tonight between Madrid and Barcelona and the whole country has soccer fever.

We are having a great time

Saturday, April 25, 2009

Oh My Gaudi

These past two days have passed jam-packed with touring Barcelona. We have walked miles and miles in and out of narrow Gothic streets, wide boulevards, high end fashion stores, and green parks. But the lasting image of Barcelona is definitely SeƱor Gaudi's mark he has left on the city.

Gaudi is a Barcelona-born architect whose curving, organic style is paralleled by no one. He avoids using calculations or blueprints or even straight lines and right angles in his work. It is bright, comfortable, and simply awesome. On Friday we went to see Casa Mila, a 4-story apartment building right on the main Passaig de Gracia.


On Saturday we went to the renowned unfinished Church La Sagrada Familia. Though it has been under construction for over a century it is not near finished. Hopefully I will be able to come back in 30 years and see the final product (I did see improvement even from 3 years ago). Someone described the church as an cake left out in the rain...and I couldn't describe it better. We got to take an elevator up one of the tall towers and walk down. It was amazing to be so high up and see all the amazing work up close and personal.


A few other highlights from the past couple days include eating (TWICE!) at Vaca Paca a fabulous all-you-can-eat buffet that I found the first time I came here...mmm delicious! Right next to our apartment we found this amazing Arc de Triomf.
We also went to a WONDERFUL Flamenco show complete with dancing, opera singing, Spanish guitar etc. Man, those dancers can sure stomp their feet, and the costumed ladies were gorgeous. Barcelona has cooled down a bit the past few days but the city is still teeming with people, energy and life.

So long!